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Imithwanciso Emeletho Yezulu Ezingcono Ukufunda Ngayo
Njengoba abantu abaningi befuna ukunciphisa umthelela wabo emvelweni, imithwanciso ecolofe ziye zaba isihloko esishisayo. Lezi zinto zishintsha imboni yezemfashini neyokuxubha ngokunikeza ezinye izindlela ezizinzile zokwenza izindwangu ezibiza kakhulu njengezindwangu ezivamile zikakotini noma i-polyester yokufakelwa. Kodwa njengoba kunezindlela eziningi kangaka, kungaba nzima ukwazi ukuthi iziphi ezingasebenzi kabi emvelweni nokuthi yini eyenza zikhetheke. Ngezansi kunesiqondiso esiya phezulu imithwanciso ecolofe kufanele wazi ngazo, kusukela endleleni ezenziwa ngayo kuya ekusetshenzisweni kwazo okuhle kakhulu, ukuze ukwazi ukwenza izinqumo ezinolwazi ngezindwangu zakho zokugqoka, ikhaya, noma amaphrojekthi.
I-organic cotton
I-cotton engqungquthelwe yisicatfu esiyinhloko kakhulu sasebenzisa imithwanceli yemhlophe, futhi ngokwesikhundla. Ngokuhluke ne-cotton engqungquthelwe, okusebenzisa izilimi zokupheya, izilimi zokuphaya amathambo, nezithuthi zokuphandwa, icotton engqungquthelwe isetshenziswa ngokusebenzisa izindlela zokuphandwa. Abaphandi basebenzisa ikhompheste esikhundleni sefethile yezilimi, futhi amathambo aphathwa ngokusebenzisa amathambo amanye noma izilimi ezisulelwe, ukulungisa umhlaba nezinto zokugcina amanzi ukuphishwa.
Ukusebenzisa amanzi isisombululo esikhulu. I-cotton engqungquthelwe inquma amanzi amakhulu — ngokuphakathi kwezindlela ezi-2,700 kwe t-shirt evela. I-cotton engqungquthelwe, ngohlobo lomusa, isetshenzisa amanzi avuyayo, ukuthatha amanzi ngokuphakathi kwe-91%. Kuyahlukahluka futhi kunezinye izicatfu zokupheya okuphansi kwezinye izicatfu zokupheya kakhulu ngokuthi akukho zilimi ezisulelwe ukuphishwa.
I-cotton engqungquthelwe isebenziswa ngokuvamile, kusukela kwe t-shirt nekhankatha kuye kwezindlela zokulayela nezicatfu zabantwana. Sicabanga leli qhoboka laleli GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) ukuthi kuyahlukahluka kakhulu kwezinhlobo zemhlophe nezinhlobo zokusebenza, kanye nezinhlobo zokusebenza ngokuthandwa.
I-Hemp
I-Hemp kanye nezinto eziphila ngokuphezulu kakhulu emhlabeni, futhi kungenzeka ukubona ukuthi kungani. Izithamo ze-hemp zifutha ngokushesha—zifinyelela kancane kanye nezinsuku ezingu-3-4—futhi zidinga majele amanzi. Zokudla kakhulu kwezilwane ezingathanga, ngakho-ke azidingeki izinsizwa noma izibhakhithi. Okunconywa, hemp ikhulisa ubunjwa bwezimali ngokunemela amanzi emhlabeni, yini engcono yokulima izithamo ngokulandelana nezinye.
Izicathami zokwenza izicathami ziphakeme futhi ziphumele, noma kutheni ukutheni okuphansi okuphansi okuphansi ngokushesha ngokulwa ngokulwa. Izingqimba ze-hemp ziphumele kakhulu kuye kutheni, ngakho-ke izicathami noma izinto ezweni hemp zilala ngeminyaka engapiweyo. Isendwelela kakhulu kuzo zonke izinto: izijanisi, izijaki, izibhobho, futhi kanye nezokudwelisa indlu njengokwehliswa noma izicurane.
I-Hemp isidinga ukusebenziswa okuncane kakhulu. Amagqabiwa kwezithamo ekhishwa, futhi izingqimba zilungiswa kwi-yarn ngaphandle kwezicelo ezingathanga, ukulinda inkokheli yokwenza okuncane kakhulu. Kuye kubani ofuna ukuthola izicathami eziphakeme, ezilala ngeminyaka engapiweyo, eziphathelene nezimali, hemp iyisikhetho esiphakeme.
I-Linen
Ilineni iba khwezi yezilwane eziphakeme, ezinye kwezindlela ezingcono kakhulu zokulima. Ilineni kudinga amanzi amancane kuphela - kubeke yona yonke into engaphela - futhi ayidingi izithixo zokulima, okwenza kube yimali kakhulu kumhlaba. Inhlanhla yezilwane isebenziswa, ngakho-ke kungabi naluphi lutho olungasebenzi: izifuba zenza ilineni, noma izithwala singcinwa ngayo yilayini.
Ilineni lifabric lithenga, linamveliso, bese linemboni yemvula, yonke into abantu abaningi balithanda. Iyisisekelo esiphakeme sokuthiwa kwezinsuku zomvula, njengokuthiwa amaphatheli, amashirti, nezinsuku zokulala ngoba linamveliso wokuthola amanzi bese linakekela phansi ukushisa. Ilineni lisebenza futhi kakhulu kwezilwane zasekhaya njengokuthiwa amaphethini, amanapkin, nezibheshi zokulala.
Enye yezici ezinhle kakhulu zilineni ukuthi iyisigaba esibonakalayo. Xa lingasebenzi lisebenza, linamveliso wokuthiwa kumhlaba, linde lingathathwa naluphi olunye into olungcono. Lisebenza futhi kakhulu - izinto zilineni zingasebenzi kakhulu, zingathathwa kwezinyangeni eziningi, zingake kuthathwe izinto eziya kusebenza.
Tencel (lyocell)
I-Tencel, bekwa-ke ngokuthi iyilyo-cell, iyilithiwa ethwalekileyo elweni lwezilwane ezenziwe yindoda etholakale kakhulu kusuka kuzilwane zomhlaba, ngokuvumelana nezilwane zomhlaba zokuthiwa, izilwane zomhlaba zokuthiwa, noma izilwane zomhlaba zokuthiwa. Lezi zilwane zihlala kuzilwane ezifisayo, apho azidingi ukulindela noma izilwane zomhlaba, futhi ngasinye isilwane esikhunyutwe, esinye sikhanyiswa.
Okuthiwa kuyindlela yokwenza i-Tencel. Isetyenziswa ngendlela yendlela encinci, okuthiwa 99% wezilwane nezilwane zokwenza izilwane zokuthiwa kuzilwane zokuthiwa zikhokhelwe futhi zisetyenziswe futhi. Lokhu kuthintela ukuphazamiseka nokulawulwa, ukwenza i-Tencel enye yezilwane ezifisayo ezenziwe yindoda etholakale kakhulu.
I-Tencel inenjani, inenjani yilwane futhi inenjani yokuthenga, ukwenza yinto engcono kwezilwane ngokuthiwa, izilwane, nezilwane zokuthiwa. Kuyindlela yokuthiwa kuzilwane ezifisayo, njengokuthiwa akudingi izilwane ezithile. I-Tencel ingasetyenziswa ngezilwane ezinye ngokuthiwa, izilwane zomhlaba zokuthiwa noma izilwane zokuthiwa ukongeza amandla noma ukwenza, ukuthiwa kusebenza ngokuthiwa.
Ipuliyetha lehlukile
Ipuliyetha ilandelwe yindlela enkulu yokunciphisa amandla okwehliswa. Kwenziwa ngokuphathwa kwezibhokisi zemeri, amathithaya akudala, noma izinkontshana zokulayishwa futhi kuthathwa futhi kwenziwa izinkuni ezintsha. Le ndlela isebenza ngamandla angu-59% ngaphansi kokuwakha ipuliyetha entsha ukusuka kwehla, futhi iyakhipha amandla landfill nasezindlini—lapho kudinga iminyaka engu-100 yokuphohlwa.
Izibhakabhaka ngokwabo yikhulu, inddwabisa, neyekhala yemeri, ngokufanayo nezibhakabhaka zokulandelwa, kodwa ngekona embi yokulinganisa kwezimali. Isetshenziswa kakhulu kumaseko amaphoyisa, amaphethini (njengokwehliswa noma amajipu), futhi kwayekhala, ngokuba iyasala ngokushesha futhi ithinte iklasi yayo.
Bheka lebula lalela (Global Recycled Standard) ukuqinisekisa ukuthi izibhakabhaka zenkulu yindlela engu-50% yezinto ezilandelwe futhi ukuthengwa kuyafaka amandla ethemba nezimali. Ipuliyetha ilandelwe yindlela enkulu yokubonisa indlela okwehliswa iyakwenzeka into ethandwa.
Inqubo yemithi yebhambu
Ukubhambazane kutholwe ukuvumeka njengomlango wokwenziwa oqondileyo noma wonke amabhambazane awenziwa ngendlela efanayo. Okuqukethwe yileyo ukubheka ukubhambazane olwenziwe ngendlela yokusebenza, okwenziwa ngokucubungula amabhambazane kwaye ukuyila kuzo ngezimiso ezenzekelayo ukuze zibizwe ngokuba yezifibhile. Le ndlela ayisebenzi amakhemikhali alungileyo, ukwenza into ephumelelayo.
Vimbela ukubhambazane olwenziwe ngendlela yamakhemikhali, okusebenzisa amavavanyo amathile njengokwesobunxe (sodium hydroxide) ukuyila into, ukwenza umlilo kwaye ukusetya amagcula athile kumhlango.
Ukubhambazane olwenziwe ngendlela yokusebenzisa umsebenzi uphumele, ungasemathileni, noma ungasemathileni amadoda, njengokwesilika kodwa noluntu olunye oluphumele. Sisebenzisa kwiintambo, i-t-shirts, nasezweni zabantwana, ngokuba uphumele kwindawo yekhombo. Amabhambazane aphumele ngokukhawuleza - oku kwezinye inyathelwe inzima kwaye ingafuni amakhemikhali, ukwenza into enokutholwa ngokuphelelweyo.
Uboya obenziwe ngezinto eziphilayo
Izulu yindlela yamanzi, kodwa izulu eziphakeme zingaba nokuba kakhulu ngokwezindlela zokudonsa. Kodwa izulu ezingcono zisuka kwezinye zilandelayo ezidonswe kuzindlu ezingcono, lapho kudla amanzu ngaphandle kwezilike kanye nezilike zokudonsa. Lezi zinye azitholanga amadoda kanye nezinhlobo zokuthutha izulu, okwenza kube lula ukudonsa izinye.
Izulu ezingcono iyaphansi, inamandla yokukhuphuka manzi, kanye inamandla yokubulala. Kuyaphawula kwezinto zokugcoba njengezikhathi, izinkawu, nezindumbu, kanye nezindumbu zokubhobha kanye nezindumbu zokugcoba. Izulu inamandla yokukhuphuka okwamanzi, okwenza ubeke kakhulu ngemvula kanye nezulu elishisayo.
Bheka izimbangela njenge-Solidarity kanye ne-GOTS ukuthi izulu iyadinga ukuthi kungcono kanye nezinye azitholanga ukuthi kungcono. Izulu ezingcono iyachaza ukuthi kungcono kanye nezinye azitholanga ukuthi kungcono.
Izulu ezingcono
I-cotton ephindweyo ikhela umphumelelo kwezicathami zasekile, amakhiwane kanye nezicathami zedemini. Esikhundleni sokuthiwa lezi zinto zilahlekelwe, zikhishwa, kuthathwa amakhwaphula futhi zikhanyiswa kuya kwezincwadi ezintsha. Le ndlela isebenza ngemibili engu-95% lula nezindleko ezingu-62% ngaphansi kokuvela kwe-cotton entsha, lula ukulawula kwezindleko.
I-cotton ephindweyo khulwa ngezinye izicathami ezingenhla zokudla njengokwehla kanye nezicathami eziphindweyo ukwengeza ubukhulu, ngoba izifayibheli eziphindweyo kungakhulu kube ngaphansi kwezintsha. Isabalwa kakhulu kwezinto, kanye ne-t-shirts, ne-jeans, kanye nezibhaga zokubeka izinto.
Noma i-cotton ephindweyo ayiyo ngokujulile njengokwehla kahle, yindlela engcono yokuthula ukulahleka kwezicathami - kuhlose kakhulu kwezicathami okungu-92 milione ithoni elahlekiswa ngokushesha ngokuphelele. Ukukhetha i-cotton ephindweyo ikhomba ukuthiwa le nto yilapho.
Imibuzo Evame Ukubuzwa
Yiyiphi le fabric eningi yokudla?
I-Hemp kuyindlela enqamkela ngokuba yenziwa ngamandla amaningi, ayinakho iziphashi, ikhulisa ubungovu bwezimali, kanti yona enobukhulu. Kodwa, leyo 'ngcono' inkcazelo ibangelwa kakhulu ngokudinga kwakho - ikhala enye kakhulu yindlela yezinto zomhla, ngelokho i-polyester ephucwe yindlela yezinto zokuhlala.
Izifabhrishi ezifisayo kwezinhlabo ziningiwe kakhulu?
Kungcono ukuba yizinto eziphansi kakhulu ngokwokuqala ngokuba izindlela zokwenza ezenziwe ngendlela esemngeni zingcono. Kodwa ubukhulu bawo bethula ngokude, ngoko uyokwenza ukuthatha okuncane kwezinto eziphinde zifakwe. Kanti amabhrende amaningi anowunyaniso okuthola izinto ezenziwe ngendlela esemngeni.
Yini engenza ukuthi inkcazelo ibe yintetho esemngeni?
Bheka imithombo yezinye i-GOTS (yinkcazelo enkulu), i-GRS (yinkcazelo ephucwe), noma i-OEKO-TEX (yinkcazelo engenakho izilimi). Lezi zilabelu zokuthi inkcazelo iyahlukile kakhulu ngokwezimali nezokulawulwa.
Uma inkcazelo esemngeni iyahluka noma iphehlile?
Izifabrikhi ezenzakalelayo njengokoti wesilika noma izilineni kungahle kunciphisa ukubona kokuqala lapho kuhlahlwa, ngakho ke kungcono ukuhlhlwa ngemvula belula kanye nokulahla. Izifabrikhi ezenzakalela kahle kugcinwa kahle yekhulumi, ngakumbi uma kuhlwahlwe ngemikhumbi yamanzi, yezilwane.
Umaqo amanzi amandelanga ethile ukusetshenziswa kuwo wonke amathathakatha athathwe?
Yebo! Kukhona izinketho ezenzakalela kwezinto zonke zokuvakwa: kusukela kwezitshalo esibhakabhakeni (izilineni, ukoti wesilika) kuya kwezitshalo esibhakabhakeni (ukoti wesilika) kuya kwezitshalo (ipoliesta ephindisiwe).